Free Pattern: Temperature Scarf to Crochet

First few rows of the project knit with the moss stitch. As you can see, the color changes are very muddy. Click to embiggen.

As you know from my previous post, I picked out the colors to use for my temperature scarf and ordered them. Well once I finally got all the colors in (I forgot to order one in my original order). I was getting a bit stressed that I was falling behind on the project so I got started knitting the day it all came in.

To start with, I used a moss stitch and about 84 st across. I knew this would give me a scarf about a foot wide, which sounded good. But when I started knitting, 3 things became obvious really quickly:

1. The moss stitch is not very good for color changes that are crisp. Mine were very muddy.
2. I was going to have a LOT Of ends to weave in at the end of the project. Like about 730 of them (the beginning and ending end for each day). Ugh!
3. I was going to have to sacrifice one of my favorite sock needles for an entire year!

The Temperature Scarf so far (just the month of January) with a sc ripple stitch. Click to embiggen.

I thought about a knitting stitch I could use instead, but they all would either curl a lot (like stockinette stitch with garter stitch borders) or make the scarf skinnier (like ribbing) or make it even harder to weave in ends (like lacy stitches). So I started playing with crochet stitches. I wanted something tight so that I could weave in my ends as I went and so it would be warm. I wanted something about 6 feet long and I wanted to be able to see the color changes pretty clearly. But I didn’t want it to be boring. After playing with it a LOT, taking gauges, ripping out, and playing more, I came up with a single crochet ripple or chevron stitch and I really like the way its turning out. I do know that I will have to wash it & lay it flat when its finished, however, because it will get a bit wave-shaped as I go.

The Pattern

Chain 103

Row 1: sc in 2nd st from hook, sc 2 tog in next 2 st, *1 sc in each of next 3 st, 3 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, sc 3 tog in next 3 st** repeat from * to ** 7 times, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, 3 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 3 st, sc 2 tog in next 2 st, sc in last st

Change colors as indicated, weaving in ends as you go. Block.

The Question

Now I’m trying to decide if I should make this scarf reflect the weather in one place (Omaha, NE) or make it reflect the weather around me. For example, I’m going on vacation in April to somewhere warm: should I do the colors of my vacation or the colors of Omaha while I’m gone. Let me know what you think in the comments or the poll below.

One other note: Turns out you can get the historical weather for previous days/months you may miss very easily online here. Just substitute your zip code for the one in the address bar.

Making a Temperature Scarf (Knit or Crochet)

The colors of Palette yarn I selected for my Temperature Scarf.

I got an idea for a “Temperature Scarf” from Bernat’s blog. The idea is that you knit every day of the year and the color you use is based on the temperature of that day. I loved the idea immediately, although I admit it seems like a pretty big commitment. But it also seems like a way do make something that would be tedious and annoying if you did it all at once. The pattern calls for moss stitch after all (klp1 for one row, then p1k1 for the next row). That is not a really fun stitch to do in any great quantity. But if you did a bit every day its manageable.

The problem with the pattern as it’s written, however, is that it calls for worsted weight yarn. Based on the ball band and the number of rows the pattern would be (784), the project will result in an 11 foot long scarf. A bit much. Plus, I don’t really want to work in that much acrylic. So, my solution was is to do the project in sock yarn instead. I estimate this will result in a scarf about 6 feet long. Still huge, but more reasonable. I ordered from KnitPicks.com and their Palette line of yarns (which has an amazing array of colors). I haven’t gotten the yarn in yet so hopefully the colors work together as well as they seem to from their online pictures. But we all know that online pictures are not the most accurate when it comes to color.

I created a spreadsheet, which I’ve put on my phone, to keep track of the high temperature each day. I figure if its on my phone, it has the advantage of being with me no matter where I go. I also figure that if its not perfect to the degree each day, its not a huge deal: its just a scarf after all. So I’ve been adding the weekly forecast to my spreadsheet a few times a week so that if I miss a day recording the temp, I’ll have something pretty close.

Download the spreadsheet here.

I can’t wait to get my yarn and get started!

Update: Get the pattern I ended up using and all the rest of the details in part 2 of this post here.

Getting Started in Crochet

The patterns shown here are easy and a great way to get started.

There are a lot of resources out there to get started in Crochet, including a variety of books. But there are lots of free resources, too – especially YouTube vidoes. So I took the time to review several of these videos to find the very best. I looked for easy-to-follow instructions, clear pictures, and all the info you need to get started in one place.

I didn’t find any videos that meet all these criteria and also cover yarn selection, hook selection and give a pattern. So, here’s my suggestion to get started without having to buy any books:

1. Yarn: Review my post on selecting yarn. I recommend you start with an even, smooth, lighter colored worsted weight yarn. You might want to go to the craft store to pick your first one out so you can feel the yarns and see the exact color. If you are making the dish cloth pattern below, you will want your yarn to be absorbent so select one that has a high amount of cotton in it. Acrylic yarns are cheaper, but they won’t really soak up water. And cotton yarns aren’t going to shrink or otherwise change if exposed to hot water.
2. Hook: The pattern you select will specify the hook to use, which will also be based on the size of yarn you select. Smaller yarns generally require smaller hooks & vice versa.  If you have the funds, you might want to get a kit of inexpensive hooks to start. That gives you several sizes to work with. You probably will end up liking a different style of hook better, but these will work and give you the flexibility to do many different projects without having to buy more hooks. If you don’t have the funds, the patterns I have selected below all don’t have a gauge that matters, so you can buy an H sized hook (probably the most commonly used with worsted weight yarn) and have a minimal investment to start with.
3. Technique: Then check out this series of YouTube videos – they are the best and most comprehensive I found.
4. Patterns: Once you have the basic techniques, here are a few great free patterns for a beginner. You do NOT have to use the yarn brand or color suggested in the pattern. You can, but any worsted weight (size 4) yarn will work. You will need a free account on Lion Brand yarns to view these patterns. But, trust me, its well worth your while to sign up for a free account on their site.

• Dish Cloth – all single crochet
• Caramel Tweed Shawl – all half double crochet
• Spring Pastel Scarf – double crochet and chain stitch

If none of the patterns I’ve suggested are to you liking, try doing a search for Beginner patterns on their site or on Ravelry and you will find all sorts of choices.

I’d love to hear how these resources worked for you! Please let me know in the comments.

How To Keep Your Frogged Yarn from Tangling

Here is an example. I started a pair of socks & then decided to frog them. The yarn I frogged is on the tube you see next to the ball.

It’s happened to most knitters & crocheters: you start on a pattern and part way through you realize you did something wrong or you don’t like the pattern. So you have to frog your work. But when you do so, you end up with a big tangled mess that is a pain to work with until you get back to the ball of yarn you were working with. Well, here’s how you can keep that yarn from tangling up while you rework it.

As you frog your work, wrap the yarn around a smooth tube. I used the my Sock Knitting Needle Holders from KnitPicks.com for this example, but a used toilet paper tube or a travel toothbrush holder would work as well. You just want something tubular in shape and smooth in texture. Start wrapping at one end of the tube and just keep wrapping moving gradually toward the other end. Its okay if your yarn overlaps itself, but for best results, you don’t want it to go back and forth on the tube much.

Now start working again from the tube. One end of the tube will probably raise off the surface, which is ideal. Your yarn will come off smoothly and without knots and, if more comes off the ball on accident after you start, you can just wind it around the other end (being careful not to cover any of the yarn already on the tube). When all the yarn on the tube is used, start working from the ball as normal.

Happy crafting!

5 Reasons to Find A Crafting Group Today

The wrap I was wearing my first night at the Nebraska Knit & Crochet Guild.

For 24 years, I was a solitary crochet & knitter. Not only was I always working alone, but I didn’t even know very many other crafters. My mom knits a bit, but mostly I knew people who WANTED to knit or crochet but never did get around to it. now I can tell you, I had no idea what I was missing.

When I moved from Kentucky to Omaha in July, I was looking for ways to meet people in my new city. This is tough to do. So I went out to Meetup.com and did a search for groups in Omaha to see what I could find. I found the Nebraska Knit & Crochet Guild. It took me a few months to get around to going to my first meeting. Partly I was busy unpacking, but mostly I was nervous. I’m a pretty strong introvert (although not shy about talking to people) and I’ve never found making friends to be easy. I made a million excuses about how I didn’t have time, might not have anything in common with the group, etc. But when I eventually did go, it was like coming home.

I walked in the door wearing a crocheted wrap I had recently finished. I saw some women sitting around knitting and asked if I was in the right place. The people in the group were so nice and they made me feel right at home. They complimented me on the wrap, which is something anyone might do, but what made the experience great was that they also asked me all about it – what kind of yarn had I used, where was the pattern from, who designed it, etc. They admired the stitches and the color choices. And I, of course, did the same for all their handmade items. And I realized at that moment that they were filling a hole I hadn’t even realized was in my life: someone to really appreciate the handcrafted items I had put so many hours and so much effort into making! Wow! That really was invaluable in a way that someone who’s never made something from scratch can probably appreciate.

Since that day, I have found many other reasons to be part of a crafting group and I wanted to share them with you.

1. We share each others’ triumphs and joys in crafting.Crafters can appreciate the work of other crafters in a way that non-crafters never could. They GET how much work you put into the project, how cool the pattern is, and how awesome (and probably expensive) that yarn you selected is.
2. We share resources. When I get a new book, I bring it by so others can check it out and see if they might want to buy it (and they do the same). We each have our own tools and are happy to share where we found them, where is the best place to buy yarn, etc.
3. We share knowledge. When I made my Nebraska Winter Hat & ScarfI wasn’t really happy with how the scarf edge was coming out. But one of the ladies in the group showed me how to slip the first stitch on the scarf of every row. Wow did that look better – thanks Karen! When I made my poncho and it turned out to be a bit too big, they suggested a draw string. If I have a crafting problem, there is always someone there who has a solution.
4. We have become great friends. Conversation is easy when you 1) have at least one topic in common you can always fall back on and 2) have something to do with your hands. Why do you think so many friends meet over meals? If there was a lull in the conversation, we just all concentrate on our projects for a while. It takes so much of the pressure off of talking to strangers.
5. We have lots of fun!

If you aren’t part of a crafting group today, I encourage you to join one. Use meetup to find one in your area or start one yourself. And let me know if the comments what your experience with crafting in a group has been like.

Happy crafting!

Beautiful Opera Gloves

Project Log: “Opera Sleeves”

The finished "Opera Sleeves". As you can see, the flowers really show. And the length is quite nice, too.

These opera gloves were one of the most frustrating things I’ve made in a long time! Here’s what happened: first I created all the little crochet flowers as specified by the pattern (there are 20). I wove in all the ends and then I started working the mesh. Man did I have trouble. I worked the thing 4 times before I finally contacted Lion Brand Yarn for some help with their pattern. To their credit, they responded pretty quickly. I told them I couldn’t get the pattern to work correctly and that I thought there was an error. They got more information from me and then, I suppose, worked the pattern for themselves. Only a few days later they responded – they couldn’t find anything wrong!

“I’m an experience crocheter”, I thought. “There must be something wrong with the pattern. I’ll just have to figure out what it is myself.”

I printed the pattern and I started picking it apart in detail. I even highlighted every other row in the chart for the mesh so I could see where the mistake was. And eventually, I figured it out. I couldn’t believe it. I had done every single one of my flowers WRONG! They were supposed to have 8 loops on the outside at the end (4 petals) and all of mine had 10 (5 petals). Sigh.

Worried I would run out of yarn, I didn’t think I could start over with the flowers again. So I found the woven in ends on every single flower, undid them, unraveled them to about row 2 of the pattern, worked them all again, and wove all the ends in again. Strangely enough, ONE was right – so I assume that I must have incorrectly done the pattern from memory after the I finished the first flower.

Here is the flower as I first did it - with 10 loops around the outside instead of 8.

Sorry Lion Brand Yarn for doubting you (and for any mental cussing I may have directed your way).

After I found my mistake with the flowers, these sleeves were difficult to work. They really mean it when they say its for experienced crocheters. The second one went pretty easily but the first one was a real bear. I ended up undoing and redoing some part of the work at least 10-12 times by the end of it. The pattern was complex, not terribly intuitive and it was also not very forgiving of mistakes. What I didn’t realize was that I was working from the elbow down to the wrist – knowing for the second one made things a lot easier. But I’m thrilled with the final product. And they are wonderfully stretchy, elegant and just one of my favorite things I’ve made.

Pattern: Opera Sleeves (requires log in to LionBrand.com to access)

Yarn: Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour® in the Onyx colorway. The pattern calls for 2 skeins and, even with my mistakes, that was more than enough yarn. But one would not have been enough. The yarn is a little difficult to work with – the dark color and the texture of it make it hard to see your loops. But the results are beautiful and if I did this pattern again I’d use this yarn.

Lessons Learned:

• You can tell where the knot is on a piece of finished work in the round, even after you weave in the ends, by feel. Even if you can’t really see it, you can feel a spot on the edge that is more hardened that the rest of the edge.
• The best way to work out a knot from finishing off is with a small needle. Insert the needle into the knot to loose it up, then you can pull loose the end.
• When Lion Brand says that a pattern is for experienced crocheters, they really mean it. But when they say they will help if you find mistakes they mean that too. Well done to them.
• When you are making 20 of something, be extra darn sure that you are doing it right.

What was the most difficult project you have completed so far? Let me know in the comments!

How to Count

Counting is harder that you might think

A stitch counter & a variety of markers. Note how some of the markers open and some do not.

It may seem easy at first, but counting things like stitches or rows can actually be kind of hard. This is especially true when you count 80 or 100 or even more of something. If you don’t believe me, sit down and try to count the number of paperclips in your paperclip holder. You will find that your mind wanders after a while and then you will lose count. The task is boring and monotonous after all. Its even more complicated when you may be counting over a period of days, weeks or even months (hopefully not years). Over all my time crafting, I’ve learned some tricks for how to count things – which is a big part of both knitting and crocheting. Here are some tips.

Using a Stitch Counter

A stitch counter is an invaluable tool. In fact, you probably want to have more than one. There are a variety of these items made but I recommend the kind that increments when you press a button. The other choice is the kind where you have to hand-turn the numbers – these slow you down. You can use this to count rows or stitches or even pattern repeats. And if you are counting something like rows, you can put your stitch counter away with the number you were last on right there. Just be sure to also write it down in case your counter gets jarred accidentally & increments for you.

Breaking It Into Chunks

It is much easier to count if you break it into smaller chunks. I usually find I can count to 10 without getting distracted. Plus 10 is a number that’s very easy to use mathematically. So, I will count 10 over and over again until I reach the desired number, keeping track of repeats. So if I needed to chain 182, I would count to 10 and click my stitch counter, then count to 10 again until I have done so 18 times, then I would add 2 more and be done. This is very accurate – I usually don’t even need to double check my count.

Count Out Loud

When I am counting a piece rapidly – like chaining stitches or casting on – I always count out loud. Sure you sound funny doing it, but even if you count under your breath there is something about vocalizing the numbers that helps me concentrate and keep from losing focus.

Counting Repeated Stitches

Sometimes you don’t actually have to count how many there are of something, you just a certain number of repeats. An easy way to do this is to use the first number to mark the number of repeats and then count from there. So, for example, if I had to do 5 double crochet stitches 8 times, I would count as follows:

1, 2, 3, 4, 5
2, 2, 3, 4, 5
3, 2, 3, 4, 5
4, 2, 3, 4, 5
etc.

Stitch Markers Rock!

Sometimes you can use stitch markers to manage repeats. I find this especially true in knitting but it can be for crocheting as well. Just be sure if you are using stitch markers in crochet that you use the kind that open. Otherwise they will become a permanent part of your project!

Stitch markers are especially helpful in a situation where its hard to “read” your work (to tell what the stitches are after the fact). For example, when I created my first lace knitting project (which I know now is really eyelet knitting), I segmented the work into blocks where the pattern repeated, then I put stitch markers between the blocks. That way I know every time I get to a stitch marker where I should be in the work. This helped me find errors more quickly without counting my stitches. In fact, I recovered from several dropped stitches this way.

You can also use stitch markers to help you find your row in work. For example, I recently did a cable knit hat. The cable was to be done every 4 rows, but sometimes it was hard to tell how many rows I had worked. But when I started putting a stitch marker in the same row where I cabled, I could easily tell at a glance if I was at the right row to cable without having to use a counter.

Half-Moon Cape (includes pattern)

This cape is very glittery and looks especially amazing in low light. The photo does NOT do it justice. Click image to embiggen.

Project Log: Half-Moon Cape

This weekend I finished a half-moon cape. This is the first project I’ve made which I intend to sell. I don’t have a store set up yet, but I will have once I have some more inventory. And I also am hoping to enter a few pieces (possibly including this one) in the art show at a Science Fiction & Fantasy Convention in May. I think it will look great with a corset!

I got the pattern for this from Joan in the Nebraska Knit & Crochet Guild. It’s super easy and I’ll put it here for you to use in a minute. The real trick is not the pattern but the yarn. Some patterns show off your skills and some just show off yarn – this is one of the later. Its fun because it gives you an opportunity to work with some yarns you usually don’t get to use very often. This is actually the second of these I made – the first was for my Mom for her birthday and was even more gorgeous (in my humble opinion).

Pattern: Start with by chaining 10 with an N hook. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Then hdc in each ch stitch across.  For the rest of the piece, hdc in each hdc across, adding 4 stitches every row (to ad st, 2 hdc in one st). Change colors when the mood takes you.

I find the easiest way is to always add one at the beginning & end and then randomly add 2 more over the course of the row. Its a very forgiving pattern, however. If you accidentally add 5 one row or 3 in another, it won’t make much of a difference.

I finished this particular piece with an I Cord knitted from some of the leftover Vanna’s Glamour (the only yarn I had left in any quantity – size 3 dpn used). I threaded it through the loops of one of the more open parts (which happened to also be in Vanna’s Glamour). This will allow the piece to be tied on. Although it can also be secured with a shawl pin or just left to hang on its own.

The extreme close up view of the cape shows the sparkly bits off to better effect.

Yarn:

1. Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour – ruby red colorway
2. Lion Brand Martha Stewart Glitter Eyelash – garnet colorway
3. Premier Yarns Fashion Jeweltones – red diamond colorway
4. Jo-Ann Sensations Angel Hair Yarn – red colorway
5. One other angel hair yarn (I can’t remember what it was – sorry)

Lessons Learned:

1. Colors don’t necessarily have to match exactly to be used. Even though this cape uses several shades of red, it works in the overall piece.
2. Texture is also a kind of sparkle. Not every yarn in this piece has sparkle to it, but the ones that don’t have an interesting texture (angle hair).
3. I Cords are addictive. And they are better than a long chain stitch for many things because they look good from all sides and the ends are a lot easier to weave in and hide.

7 Reasons You Should Start Knitting or Crocheting Today

The beginning of a project is often the best part. Well... except for the end of course.

When I talk to people who are not crafters, they often say they wish they could knit or crochet. But they usually follow it up with a list of reasons why they can’t do it. Common reasons are: not enough patience, not enough creativity, not enough time or just a general “I could never do something like that”. Well I firmly believe that anyone can learn to knit or crochet. Sure there are things which are hard to make, but there are also things which are easy to make. And its a very rewarding hobby. So I thought I’d present to you 10 Reasons You Should Start Knitting or Crocheting Today.

1. It is a wonderful feeling when you wear something you have made in public, someone compliments you on it, and you can say “Why thank you, I made it myself.” And it doesn’t take a really complicated piece to get compliments. Often the ones with simple stitches and fantastic yarn get just as much attention.
2. Everyone I have ever made a gift for using knitting or crocheting has greatly appreciated it. Handmade items make better gifts than anything store-bought because they are customized & personalized to fit that person to a T.
3. Handmade items last a really long time and continue to look great. For example, I have a crocheted project bag I made in the 80s that still looks fantastic. Granted the colors are a bit dated, but I know if I hold on to it for another 10 years it will probably be back in style again. I also have afghans I crocheted decades ago that I still use on a regular basis.
4. Crocheting and knitting give you something to do with your hand. This is great so many times but I find it helps to keep me from munching while I watch TV, gives me something to do during long phone calls, and even gives me an activity on plane flights.
5. You can make an item exactly the way you want it. Heck, if you can’t find yarn in the color you want (highly unlikely) you can even die it yourself. Instead of being limited to what other people want to offer you for clothing or home accessories, you can make something to exactly fit your style.
6. You can make just about anything. I’ve seen all sorts of wearables, jewelry, household items – its really just incredible the things you can make.
7. Crocheting and Knitting are both very relaxing. Granted there are times of frustration, but the vast majority of the time I spend working with yarn is incredibly relaxing – almost like mediation.

What are some of the reasons you like to knit or crochet? Let me know if the comments.

And if you are trying to decide which one to pick up, be sure to check out my post Difference Between Knit & Crochet.

The GroovyGhan – Super Cool Afghan

The whole big GroovyGhan in its entirety. It's really quite large.

Project Log: “The GroovyGhan”

One of my favorite projects lately was the crocheted GroovyGhan. It had been a long time since I’d done an afghan because they always took so long. But I guess my speed had increased dramatically because this one only took a few months to complete. And I love the end product.

When I started the first square – which is a good old-fashioned granny square – I got very worried that the colors would be way too much. But as I worked more and more I loved it more and more.

Pillows forms were 18" and 24". I added the fun fur in the middle AFTER I finished the entire square.

Pattern: GroovyGhan

Modifications: I accidentally ordered way too much yarn, so I made it 2x the size the pattern called for. Then I STILL had a bunch of yarn left over so I also made pillows to match. I didn’t have a pattern for the pillows: I just took one of the squares and made it a lot bigger.

Yarn: Mostly Caron Simply Soft with some stash yarn thrown in (Bernat Super Value). The Caron is significantly softer than the Bernat.

Lessons Learned:

1. When you crochet pillows, make them smaller than the forms. They will stretch to fit but if you make them the exact right size, the yarn gets saggy and they don’t look as nice after a while.
2. Before you start a project, don’t forget to check your stash for yarn you can use!! Yes I already knew this but I am really bad about actually doing it.
3. Don’t be afraid of bright colors.
4. Triple check your yarn amounts before you order.